The landscape of Lanzarote never fails to amaze its visitors, from the moonscape of the lava fields and peaks at Timanfaya to the pristine beaches of Papagayo, the island is a constant source of inspiration and wonderment. One of the most bizarre parts of the island, perhaps more so because it has been formed by man, is the wine growing region of Valle de la Geria, stretching along the southern stretch of the LZ30 between Mozaga and Uga.

When you first set eyes upon the weird vineyards of La Gería, the scene is that of hundreds upon thousands of little circular hollows in the ground, each with a single green vine at its centre and a semi circular small wall of volcanic rock skirting its edge. Covering every possible square inch that the lay of the land allows, it's a pretty amazing sight.

Faced with an arid environment where the lava soil is difficult to farm, a lack of water and an almost constant wind, the ingenious farmers of La Geria dreamt up their somewhat strange method of growing successful vines. Firstly holes are dug into the island's volcanic rock and then filled with picón (volcanic ash). A smaller hole is then dug in the centre of the larger pit for the roots of a single vine. Occasionally, hardy cacti are planted first and the vine grafted to this, but in both cases, once the vine has settled in, more picón is used to completely cover the roots and surround the plant. This is what keeps the vine alive. With very little rainfall, the vine relies on the moisture retained within the porous volcanic ash from the night time humidity and morning dew, the vine then draws water from the picón around it as and when water is needed.

Crescent shaped, dry stone walls called zocos are built around the northerly edge of each pit to shield the vine from the prevailing winds but each is built carefully to still allow the air to pass through the tiny holes and cracks to keep the plant well ventilated. It is the combination of the zocos and the pits which creates this futuristic landscape and in addition to the delicious wine which it produces, has made it world famous. A prestigious U.S. exhibition of photography gave an award for an exhibit, entitled Architecture without Architects, featuring the landscape of La Geria and it was also chosen as the set for Antonio Betancourt's film Mararia.

The wines of La Geria have also become famous the world over. "Sack" or "Canarian" have been quaffed in great quantities in courts all over Europe since medieval times. Even that most venerable of scribes, Shakespeare, was a fan with many references in his works to the wine of the islands of Elysium.

In the mid 19th century, a vicious beetle called Phylloxem attacked the vineyards across Europe and devastated crops. Due to the isolation of Lanzarote, the vineyards of La Geria emerged unscathed and since that time the grapes have been exported to all four corners of the globe. True aficionados of the famous Malvasia or Malmsey wines still maintain that the grapes produced in the rich volcanic soil of the Canaries however, produce the true "nectar of the gods". Other grapes include Listan Blanco and Negra Comun Diego which along with the Malmsey grape account for 90% of the crop, with Muscatel, Burra Blanca, Breval and Pedro Ximenez accounting for the remainder.

All along the road which cuts through La Geria you will come across the wineries themselves where you can of course taste the finished product. Each bodega has its own label and the wines are great value. At Bodega de Mozaga, a museum displays an interesting range of historical wine making paraphernalia and explains the history of wine making in the region. If you call in advance you may also be able to tour the working vineyard and bodega. I also visited Bodega La Geria, one of the most westerly and one of the oldest bodegas. Built originally at the end of the 19th Century by the Rijo family, it was Severino Betancourt who began the production of the now famous La Geria wine. Just under ten years ago, the bodega was sold and the new owners have combined the traditional methods with the most advanced wine technology and it now has a capacity of 450,000 litres.

Like all good sommeliers, I had to partake of a tasting, so I positioned myself amongst musty smelling barrels and settled in. First I tried the Malvasia Semidulce, a young white, straw yellow in colour with a bouquet of apples and bananas. Although not a lover of sweet wines, this I found extremely palatable. Next up was the Malvasia Seco, a fruity, light, dry wine, pale in colour and typical of the characteristic Malvasia grape. Much preferring a drier drop, this got my vote amongst the whites.

Moving swiftly on to the reds I next quaffed a cup of the bodega's superb vino tinto. Bright in colour the wine is full bodied and fruity, gaining its flavour from the three months it spends in American Oak barrels - a definite thumbs up from this scribe. I also tried the Malvasia Dulce, a heavy dessert white, not to my taste but I heard great things from the other side of the barrels. Bodegas La Geria also make a very palatable rosé.

A very pleasant day indeed can be spent meandering through the vineyards and wineries of La Gería - just ensure you have a nominated driver and you really can carry 24 bottles home with you. The locals advise serving the wines of La Geria at room temperature as chilling removes much of their aromatic qualities. All the wine produced in the region is protected by the La Geria-Lanzarote label of origin and the fact that you can also taste any label before you buy means that you can be certain of a quality drop. At all the wineries, they will also package up your purchases into handy carrying cases so that you can safely transport them home.

So in the words of the great bard himself from the Merry Wives of Windsor, (I quote Falstaff) I am giving myself "over to fornication, taverns, Canarian wine and the wind"!

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